Piscatorial Quagswagging

...the diary of a specialist angler in around the Warwickshire Avon and its tributaries.

Saturday, 31 August 2024

Northumberland - Slobs and Slumlords

A rather large epic fail on the fishing front up at Northumberland, I'd packed the rods but just wasn't feeling it really. I should have done some more research because we were not far from Seahouses and Beadnall where some decent Wrasse reside apparently, but the gear I packed wasn't really what I needed really. Oh well, not all about the fishing is it !!

The weather didn't help, where the first few days were really windy and not exactly good fishing weather. On route we stopped off at Colmans Seafood Restaurant in South Shields for a fish and chip lunch, which was rather nice I must admit. 



We rarely have fish and chips these days so it was a nice treat especially when the curry sauce that went with it, really was Soooooooo nice, a decent heat, consistency and full of flavour. The chips hard to fault and the batter, thin and crispy just how I like it.

I can count on one hand the amount of times I've been up this neck of the woods, but the areas can vary quite quite considerably, from rundown seaside towns and villages, to some really affluent areas with some stunning architecture and history for that matter. Houses from 50k (yes really) 150k for one with a sea view, to multi-million pound properties, plenty for all budgets. 


Bamburgh Castle and the village is an example of one of those more affluent areas, after passing between the Britons and the Anglo-Saxons three times, the fort came under Anglo-Saxon control in 590. The fort was destroyed by Vikings in 993, and the Normans later built a new castle on the site, which forms the core of the present one. After a revolt in 1095 supported by the castle's owner, it became the property of the English monarch.

In the 17th century, financial difficulties led to the castle deteriorating, but it was restored by various owners during the 18th and 19th centuries. It was finally bought by the Victorian era industrialist William Armstrong, who completed its restoration. The castle still belongs to the Armstrong family and is open to the public.




You could if you wanted from the beach at Bamburgh walk all the way to Seahorses and beyond, and I would have done it if the Wife and kids were not in tow. But the wind was kicking up the sand which wasn't ideal, but a nice ramble in a rather nice area I must admit followed by a pub lunch and a decent pint of Alnwick Ale was enjoyable enough. 

Holy Island or Lindisfarne is well worth a visit if you're in this area, where you can travel across the causeway to the Island (make sure you check the crossing times as you don't want to have to use the refuse hut !!) and discover this magical place despite the rip-off carpark. One of the most iconic landmarks in the UK, Lindisfarne Castle was converted by famed architect Sir Edwin Lutyens into a private holiday home for Edward Hudson, founder of Country Life magazine.


Outside, the garden designed by Gertrude Jekyll, and the unexpected grandeur of the 19th-century industrial lime kilns, shoreline walks and a National Trust shop in the village. There is also Lindisfarne Mead which is produced using traditional methods at the St. Aidan's winery where you can sample the different types and mead, and also purchase, local gin, wine and beers. 

Avoid the Ship Inn, as it had the world's most miserable landlord, the pub would likely shut if it wasn't for the tourists they need to think about that, at least the beer was ok. 😆




You cannot complain about the castle though, what a landmark. There were plans by Defra to ban fishing on the island a couple of years ago, however that was retracted last year apparently. There were a few fishing boats moored up the harbour during our visit, which was an encouraging sign. 
 
Now ever since 635, when King Oswald gave the Holy Island of Lindisfarne to St. Aidan to establish his monastery, the island has been a place of pilgrimage. The road was not constructed until 1954 and until then the vertical poles (The Pilgrim's Way) were the only indicators of the safe route between the mainland and island.




The sight of the poles stretching across the sand and mud is one of the most iconic views in Northumberland (that I forgot to take a picture off ) and to walk the route away from the road and follow in the footsteps of our medieval ancestors is well worth a go, we managed a good section of the 3 miles walk, but the rain and wind stopped play.

The iconic Alnwick Castle the location for Harry Potter, Downton Abbey and more is well worth a visit, the market town, really is very nice indeed and there is Sooooo many pubs and eateries to spend your pennies, the Ale Gate is my sort of place, and felt instantly welcome and a nice atmosphere. 


Anyway, this was about all we could muster up fishing wise, there is so much to go at up at this area and we barely touched it, but one thing I did notice was the percentage of those 'not shy round the buffet' did seem to increase once we got up past Newcastle 😋 happy with life I’d imagine !!. The road works 👀 almost constant on the A1M and various other main roads, a long old 290 mile slog back, thankfully a comfortable car to do it in, with the Wife doing all the driving. 

We averaged something like 17k steps a day, and yet a couple of those days I felt we didn't actually do a fat lot mainly due to the weather. Still a nice break away from the CAD screen, some wind swept walks, and a nice chilled week away with the family, now need to sort those fishing rods after a spicy concocted curry. 

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